AS A newcomer to Davao City, I was immediately struck by the multitude of coffee shops whose warm glow continued to illuminate the night sky late into the evening. I was similarly dumbfounded by the sheer number of people who packed the coffee houses seeking their caffeine fix during those twilight hours.
This reality was presented most starkly to me when I left a restaurant after it closed at 9 p.m., only to find that the Starbucks next to it was rammed with coffee lovers seemingly ready and willing to sip away long into the night.
Back home in my native United Kingdom, the coffee shops lock their doors by six, maybe seven, and then baristas and customers alike pile into the pubs to swap their cup of coffee for a cold beer.
However, in Davao, “winding down” seems to be an alien concept. Either that, or the genetic makeup of the Filipino is resistant to the energy-inducing effect of caffeine. For mere mortals like myself, a coffee in the evening is a one-way ticket to a night staring at the ceiling whilst struggling to get to sleep.
Peering through the tall glass windows of the coffee shops in the evening reveal a bustling nocturnal world for all to see. Friends and family gather, talking with energy and expression about the day gone-by. Workers and studious types ponder thought before thrashing down on the keys of their laptop with laser focus. There is the busyness and noise that one might expect at a bar or a restaurant at this time of night. There is laughter, joy and debate; and it is held by young and old alike. I have even heard whispers that former Philippines President and Davao local Rodrigo Duterte is party to a midnight coffee-fix.
However, scratch beneath the surface and Davao’s fixation with coffee around the clock becomes a little clearer to outsiders like myself. Davao has a large student population, and I know from experience that sometimes working late is the most productive way to fend off those looming deadlines. Indeed, if coffee shops in the UK mirrored similar opening hours to their Filipino counterparts then you would certainly have found me there at 10 p.m. sipping on a flat white whilst struggling away at an essay.
Then, there are the call centers. A large section of the Davao workforce are employed by call centers, who graft away throughout the night speaking to Westerners who are often oblivious to the work and training that goes into attending to their often irksome needs halfway across the world. I get it. That’s a real shift, and it takes great perseverance and strength of character to be successful in call centers. I salute you and fully understand your need for coffee to get you through. It makes sense therefore that many of these coffee shops are tactically located next to the call centers.
What is clear is that Davao evidently loves its coffee, and I’m all here for it. Having been a barista for a few years myself, I share your passion for this wonderfully smooth and strong drink. Trendy coffee shops are popping up all over Davao, proudly showcasing their ability to skillfully turn coffee beans into an enjoyable hot or cold beverage. Such drinks are fit for a city full of personable and sociable folk who love to get together around the clock to enjoy each other’s company and chat about the happenings in their life.
****
PS
Dear readers,
Allow me to introduce myself. My name is Ben Sturt, and I’m from the United Kingdom. You may be thinking how did I end up in Davao City? Last year, I bought a one way ticket to Thailand, where I taught English at a high school. After the semester, I travelled around Southeast Asia before arriving in the Philippines. I’m also a teacher here, but I count writing as another passion of mine. I will be sharing with you some of my observations about Davao, living in a new country and experiencing a new culture. I hope you find my unique perspective enlightening and interesting; if you would like to respond to any of my musings then you can reach out to me via email. My address is bensturt@icloud.com - I hope you enjoy my columns!
